One of my favorite highlights from our Peru trip was experiencing Rainbow Mountain (La Montaña de Siete Colores in Spanish). Also known as Vinicunca, this spectacular landmark was discovered in 2015 & was still considered a hidden treasure at the time of our visit. I never knew such a magical place existed until I came across the colorful (& often overly filtered) photos on Instagram. Even those well traveled were not familiar with Vinicunca when we mentioned our plans to trek the 7.5 miles to reach its rainbow goodness! Because so little was known about the mountain & reliable resources were scarce, we decided to play it safe by booking a tour with the favorably reviewed Flashpacker Connect on their website here.

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Connect With Flashpacker Connect

Flashpacker Connect got my stamp of approval from the get-go! At 2:15am, our private shuttle van picked us up from our hotel in Cusco. We were joined by three other pairs of travelers from various parts of the world (the United Kingdom, Columbia, & good ol’ USA)! The three hour drive to the mountain allowed us to catch up on some much needed sleep & we were provided warm blankets to ensure a comfortable ride.

We met our certified expert mountain guides who were very knowledgeable &, thankfully, spoke fluent English. They stocked us up on snacks, coca leaves, & water so that we were prepared for the physical challenge ahead. We also had our own personal chefs who served an amazing Peruvian hot breakfast inside a traditional mud-house near the trail head! As we filled our bellies content, the guides explained our itinerary as they showed us a map of our route.

Vinicunca Will Leave You Literally Breathless

Vinicunca is not your average hike. When considering its higher altitude & remote location, it can be a challenge for even the seasoned hiker. To give you an idea of its intensity, Mount Kilimanjaro has an elevation of 6,000 feet which is only 800 feet more than Rainbow Mountain! Therefore, I highly advise that you first acclimate to similar elevations & drink plenty of fluids beforehand. When planning your trip, is it ideal to stay in Cusco for 2-3 days prior to your trek on Vinicunca.

Although I personally encountered no problems with altitude sickness, a couple hikers from our group suffered from nausea & minor headaches. Also known as ‘soroche‘ by the locals, altitude sickness can also cause:

• Dizziness, lightheadedness
• Vomiting
• Stomach-ache
• Difficulty breathing
• Racing heartbeat
• Weakness, fatigue
• Loss of appetite

Fortunately, Flashpacker Connect were proactive in bringing along their first aid kits & emergency oxygen. One of our fellow hikers had even brought her own personal stash of ondansetron (an anti-emetic) which saved my husband from his slight misery. I also recommend packing a few coca leaves to chew on during the hike. Coca contains medicinal properties that aids in digestion, increases stamina, & helps relieve some of the common symptoms of altitude sickness.

Prepare Yourself for Any Weather Condition

Weather in the high Andes can be very unpredictable. Hikers should be well equipped with appropriate clothing such as thermal base layers, a fleece sweater, windproof pants, & an insulated jacket. Wear thick warm socks to go with durable hiking boots as you will be trekking through rugged & isolated terrains. If you tend to have cold extremities like me, I also suggest you bring along a warm beanie & a pair of waterproof gloves as well.

When we hiked Rainbow Mountain in early June, the weather was still on the cooler side. There were spotty areas of snow & the wind gusts were a little harsh at times. But none of these conditions were unbearable since we had the appropriate gear with us. Keep in mind, despite heavy cloud cover, you are still at risk for sun burns due to the higher elevation. So be sure to bring sun protection & high SPF sunscreen to shield you from the harmful UV rays.

In addition to the aforementioned gear, I recommend the following:

• Camera
• Small backpack/hydration pack
• Tissue/wipes – you will find a couple squatty potties (hole in the ground) & newly installed outdoor toilets at the trail head, but no tissue
• Hand sanitizer – see bullet point above
• Extra pair of socks – your cold, wet feet will thank you later
• Small plastic bag for trash – do your due diligence as the Leave No Trace principles apply internationally as well
• A few soles to pay for snacks, toilets, horseback rides, or Vinicunca entrance fee. If separate from the tour package, the cost is 10 soles.

So Close You Can Taste the Rainbow 🌈

The hike to the Rainbow Mountain summit takes approximately three hours with a distance of 3.7 miles. The first half of your journey will take you through flat green valleys where alpacas & wild horses roam free. Off in the distance, you will see the snow covered Ausangate Glacier which is truly an inspiring sight. You will also pass by several homes of the Quechua people & witness their simple, yet organic lifestyles. The locals here are one of the few remaining shepherding communities that remain in the world today.

During the second half of the trek is where you still start to feel the steeper incline & rough terrain. This was the point at which the distance between our groups began to grow further apart. Keep in mind that altitude sickness affects people differently, regardless of health status or activity level. Take your time & focus on long, deep breaths as you slowly make your way up.

A Colorful Geological Phenomenon

The unique painted hills of Rainbow Mountain were created by millions of years of sediment deposit & is the result of tectonic shifting from the Andes. Over time, these geographical movements have tilted the sediment to expose the colorful stratigraphic layers that we see today. The reddish colors come from iron oxide rust & the pink is from manganese. The yellow coloration is from iron sulfide, while the teal is created by the combination of copper mixing with air & water. Under deep cloud cover, the colors may appear rather dull & muted. But once the sun breaks through, its vibrancy will become more intense.

A Memorable Horseback Ride

As our group began the long trek down, we came upon locals offering horseback rides for just a few soles. One gorgeous grey steed caught my interest, nudging towards me as if he was trying to tell me something.

Several years ago, I had a traumatizing close encounter with a horse. Growing up as a little girl, I had always dreamed of learning how to ride on horseback. So one day my friend surprised me with a private lesson at his uncle’s ranch. Although I was being carefully guided by a professional handler, something had startled the horse & he lost control. Without a moment’s notice, the horse started sprinting madly towards the main road. In a panic, I threw myself off the saddle & rolled hard into a side ditch. I ended up twisting my ankle so badly that I was bed bound for a week.

Since the incident I kept telling myself I would need to face my fear & get back on again. I knew in that moment at Vinicunca, this particular horse was about to grant me that opportunity. As I rode through the beautiful landscapes of Peru, I became so emotionally overwhelmed that it had brought me to tears. It was an unforgettable experience & so symbolic in many ways.

Please note that horseback rides on Rainbow Mountain are not offered through Flashpacker Connect & they are not responsible for any accidents that may occur. The local horsemen do not speak English & they follow their own trails, so you may become separated from your hiking group. Luckily for me, one of the Flashpacker Connect guides was kind enough to walk alongside my horse (possibly per my husband’s request, since he stayed on the main trail).

It Is About the Journey, Not the Destination

Our epic rainbow adventure with Flashpacker Connect concluded at around 4:00 pm. After nourishing our famished bodies with a gourmet Peruvian lunch, we rounded back up into the shuttle van for the long drive back to Cusco. Almost immediately everyone passed out into a food coma & with the great satisfaction of having completed one of the hardest hikes they have ever endured in their lives.

As you’re doing your own research on Vinicunca, you may come across some travelers who describe unfortunate experiences with torrential weather &/or less than pleasant tour guides. Though their stories may seem discouraging, keep in mind that the weather at any mountainous area in Peru can be unpredictable. As long as you book with a dependable tour agency & have a backup plan in place, you will be fine. By good fortune, we were blessed by the weather gods & had a pleasurable experience. I do hope yours will be the same!

For more up-to-date information, please check out the Vinicunca official website here.

Angella’s Travel Tips

• Be sure to acclimatize in Cusco (or at similar altitudes) for a couple days before attempting Rainbow Mountain. The hike itself is not an easy feat & when combined with the thin air, even the healthiest individual may struggle to keep up.
• Remember to pace yourself, especially during the flat stretches. You do not want to feel winded before you reach the harder inclines.
• Those vibrant, super saturated pictures you see on social media & tourism brochures are not the real deal. On a clear day you will be able to make out the distinct colors. But they are far more subdued than what you might expect. Nevertheless, Vinicunca is still an impressive sight to see.
• Do not be misled into thinking that you can simply drive up to the top of the mountain. I’ve seen many false advertisements featuring photos of shuttle vans parked at the summit. In reality, the only way up is to hike up.
• When booking with a tour guide, review their policies regarding cancellations due to poor weather conditions. Vinicunca is not a pleasant place to be during heavy rain or snow as the trail can become very dangerous. Flashpacker Connect reassured us in a clear statement that we would receive a full deposit refund or reschedule to another date.